Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2022 Collection

Wes Gordon created costumes for one of the American Ballet Theater fall gala performances. The experience left a great impression on him. Her pre-fall collection for Carolina Herrera is inspired by dance, but not just ballet variety; there are acts here with a Bob Mackie-dresses-Cher vibe, and others that channel Ms. Herrera into flamenco.

The takeaway is exuberance. Even when working in an everyday – and presumably entry-level – material like cotton, Gordon brings drama, whether it’s with extreme puffed sleeves or a waist reduced by gathers. More often than not, however, he designs clothes for special occasions. It’s no surprise that the red column dress with floral overskirt worn by Meghan Markle at the Salute to Freedom gala at the Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum earlier this fall opens this lookbook. With a moment like this on the red carpet, he’s bound to sell a lot.

Gordon loves bows, and this collection was full of them: replacing buttons on a trimmed car coat, covering the back of a cocktail dress, dragging behind another like a train. He is also very fond of flowers and frills. A yellow gladiolus print on a purple background was eye-catching and on the brand, where the ruffles tracing the back of the thigh-high boots were kind of a departure.

Exuberance, of course, has always been a part of Herrera. Where she brought a sense of grandeur to the mix, Gordon just as often imbues her clothes with a cheeky youth: the belly flashes on a sweetheart bodice dress, the yards and yards of tulle trimmed in topiary shapes on another issue of party, a balconette corset that hugs the torso of a shortsuit. A stirrup heel jumpsuit with an extravagant sweep of sky blue ruffles on the bodice has intergenerational potential.

About Madeline J. Carter

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