Christopher John Rogers Resort Collection 2023

Joy, pleasure, exuberance. As the world shifted back to post-pandemic, designers have strived to channel those feelings into their clothing. For Christopher John Rogers, it all seems to come quite naturally. He raced down the track last night, jumping and pirouetting and enjoying his standing ovation.

It was Rogers’ first IRL show in over two years. A shift to the pre-season schedule and Omicron’s plot twist have delayed his comeback so far, but he had the whole team cheering for his comeback. Prabal Gurung, Victor Glemaud, Hillary Taymour, Peter Do, Raul Lopez and the creators of Oscar de la Renta all sat front row. Most of them have been back on the New York Fashion Week calendar since last September.

So backstage after the show, there was a sense of making up for lost time. Rogers exchanged hugs, wiped away tears and posed with what looked like his 55 models. About his collection he said: “I meant that everything can exist together, everything makes sense if you want it to. I love the idea of ​​multiplicity and that so much through a specific scope can shine.

Karlie Kloss kicked things off in a purple coat, whose oversized, double-breasted proportions were extroverted to the extreme. Tailoring played a big role, but Rogers is agnostic when it comes to silhouette. Single-breasted trouser suits exuding a masculine look mixed with other more feminine shapes with dropped lapels, back gathers and drapes and, in a few cases, trousers. He cut trench coats in bold floral prints, the colors of which were picked up in bright sheepskin dusters.

Even without the benefit of the catwalks, Rogers has created some of the most framed trends of the past two years. It was thanks to his extraordinary sense of color and his eye for graphic patterns, both of which were on full display in this collection’s range of striped knits, that he juxtaposed in more fashionable ways with striped pieces. checks and/or tights.

Another thing designers have been talking about these days is ease. None of us, they’re sure, are ready to give up the sartorial comforts we’ve come to rely on during Covid. Rogers might disagree. Aside from sweater dresses and silk pajamas, ease doesn’t interest him. In other words: his clothes attract people for whom ease has no interest.

From start to finish, this show delivered the drama, but there are a few special numbers worth mentioning. Among them: a 1930s-style floral-print tea dress and a madras-check silk shantung dress. And I bet he’s already getting calls for the strapless dress with a sunflower yellow bodice and wide horizontal stripes of coral, fuchsia and citrine circling its ball skirt.

About Madeline J. Carter

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