Taking place at the Petit Palais in Paris, Italian haute couture house Maison Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection showcases fashion perfectly suited to our contemporary climate. Conceived during a time of hope and shown during a time of uncertainty, “An Age of Discipline” recognizes and embraces the role the pandemic is playing in changing fashion. The collection reflects the emotional journey of the world over the past year.
Elemental colors and ethereal silhouettes dominate the elegant and refined Spring/Summer 2022 show. When designing this collection, creative director Daniel Roseberry deemed the bold colors and loud silhouettes inappropriate due to the times or the unease and loss in which humanity lived. Bright shades and bold volume looked hollow and exhausting. Instead, Roseberry sought drama in the pure and sophisticated. Black, white and two executions of a redefinition of the signature Schaparelli gold to reign. Specifically envisioned for the house, 24-karat gold leaf appears both raw (as seen in the Lobster and Dove) and in a polished form (as seen in the Columnar Dress in black silk jersey, for example). No other color is present.
In terms of silhouettes, Rosenberry was inspired by the empyrean. For him, the heavens “are a place of escape from the chaos of our planet, but also the dwelling of a mythical high priestess”. Throughout the show, forms that defy gravity transport wearers to a more sublime and serene world. Aerodynamic jackets and bustiers are everywhere, as well as architectural and elaborate golden structures. The geometric silhouettes are continually adapted and refined. Accessories, such as the arm-length gloves seen in look seven, are ornate. To add texture and variation among the consistent colors, Roseberry used a range of materials. There are clean shorts edged in unbleached silk-faille, satin sashes and tailcoats, and fountains of black horsehair. Look 26, a crystal cocktail dress, looks like the inside of an ornate jewelry box.
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Overall, Roseberry has created a dramatic and luxurious collection without adopting the usual tropes used to create plays. The designer has found a place for fashion in the midst of our current turbulence. Through the show, Roseberry hopes to remind viewers and why we love fashion: it has the power to tell a moving story.
Click to see all the looks of Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2022 below.